The Mountains of Greece
“Wisdom begins in Wonder”
The Vikos Gorge in Zagori, Greece. Described in the Guinness book of world records as the steepest gorge in the world. The top is only 400 meters across.
There is much more to Greece than the islands dotting the Aegean Sea, the Parthenon and the mysterious monasteries of Meteora. And, let’s not forget that Athens is the birthplace of western civilization. But high in the mountains of Greece bordering Albania there is the wild mountain region of Zagori. Ancient trails traverse through stone villages and stone bridges cross clear streams and rivers. The world famous Vikos Gorge dominates the region with its steep cliffs and crystal clear river. The Vikos springs deliver water so clean you can drink it.
We were fortunate to spend a couple weeks in Zagori in early Spring before the busy Summer season. We visited the mountain villages of Metsovo, Aristi and Papingo. We hiked trails that connect the small mountain villages surrounded by forests, cliffs and rivers. If you enjoy rugged nature, Zagori will not disappoint.
Aristi Mountain Resort
Arisiti Mountain Resort is a designated Nat Geo Unique Lodge
Aristi Mountain Resort in Zagorochoria, Epirus is recognized by National Geographic as a “Unique Mountain Lodge” and is nestled in an emerald forest at the edge of an ancient village. At Aristi nature lives in harmony with human craftsmanship. Aristi’s stone walls and hand hewn wooden beams are perched high above the Vikos Gorge. The resort includes a comfortable restaurant, a breakfast terrace, pool and sauna as well as comfortable rooms and cottages. The staff at Aristi are eager to help you plan day trips such as hikes, river float trips or cycling adventures.
Our front door at Aristi.
Natural and delicious local teas in the restaurant of Aristi
The village of Aristi is just down the hill. Visit the tavern and enjoy the view with a cold beer.
The stone walls and fireplace in our cozy and comfortable room in Aristi
View from the breakfast terrace at Aristi
The comfortable lobby of Aristi where you can meet and converse with the other guests
Papingo
The winding road to Papingo
The stone village of Papingo (or Papigo) is a favorite day trip. The writings of Byzantine Emperor Andronikos III Palaiologos in 1325 AD recorded information about this stone village. Today, it is a charming destination for tourists.
To get to Papingo from Aristi you drive the winding road to the bottom of the Vikos Gorge, cross the Voidomatis river and drive up, up, up the switchbacks. The road is stunning and beautiful with views that keep improving with every turn.
The village of Papingo is actually 2 villages (big and small Papingo) with the smaller village a little higher up the mountain. Charming cafes, restaurants and shops line the stone streets. Outside of town follow the trails and make sure to visit the clear pools of Ovires carved into the stone.
The pools of Ovires in Papingo
The stone houses of Papingo
Stone church in Papingo
Local delicacies in a shop in Papingo
View of Vikos from the road to Papingo
A child’s bike in Papingo
Ovires near Papingo
Walking through the cobbled streets of Papingo
Cheryl sitting in an alcove of the church in Papingo
Antique shop in Papingo
Road to Papingo as seen from our room at Aristi
The village of Papingo at the base of the mountains
How Papingo was saved
A Papingo woman invited us into her home which was built by her great, great grandparents before running water, electricity and plumbing was common place. Roving bandits sometimes targeted the town, so the home was also a personal fortress for the inhabitants with secret hiding locations to shoot weapons at potential intruders.
She told us a personal and memorable story about how this stone village was saved by her grandmother during World War II. German soldiers storming the region with orders to burn every village and home. They arrived at Papingo. The soldiers were ready to follow orders when this woman’s grandmother recognized one of the officers of the German army. She went to university with the young German and they had a friendship. She invited him into her home for a cup of tea. As they enjoyed their tea and reminisced other time in school, she convinced him to spare her village. A powerful reminder of how a single person and friendship can have lasting consequences.
Cheryl with the young woman of Papingo and her mother outride the home of her grandmother. The woman that saved the village.
Cheryl inside the old stone house taking a photo of the old wood burning stove.
The sink in the old house. The water was brought in by hand. Waste water poured in the sink would drain outside the house. The wooden cover allowed the sink to be a bench when not in use.
The wooden stove used for over a century
The storage cellar in the old house. The light coming through the stone wall is an opening that was used to fire weapons when there were bandits trying to attack the village.
Metsovo
The mountain village of Metsovo as seen from our hotel, the Grand Forest Metsovo.
We drove from Athens to Zagori. It is about a 5-6 hour drive so we decided to break it into 2 days. We discovered mountain town, Metsovo, and a fantastic hotel at the top of winding road, called The Grand Forest Metsovo Resort. The Grand Forest is 5 star in every way. It features a couple restaurants, bar and spa. The spa is popular in the winter with ski slopes close by. We checked into the Grand Forest on the evening of Orthodox Easter. There were the traditional Easter fireworks at the hotel and the village below.
We only stayed one night but it was memorable. We enjoyed the spa and indoor pool. We also did a small hike and toured the grounds.
The next day we visited the picturesque village of Metsovo and the surrounding country. Walking around the village is a workout as the village is carved into the side of the mountain. The town is charming and the food is delicious.
A Taverna for lunch, dinner, or beer in Metsovo
Notice the construction of mud and sticks in the old houses
The infinity pool of the Grand Forest Metsovo resort
The village church in Metsovo
Priest walking through the village of Metsovo
A colorful stone houses of Metsovo
Fireworks on Easter at Midnight in Mestovo
Enjoying the sun room of the Grand Forest Metsovo
A colorful old wooden cart in Metsovo
An outdoor cafe in Mestovo
Villages, Bridges, and River Rafting
Aristi Resort will help schedule activities so you don’t need to book for in advance. We decided to try rafting the Voidomatis River in the Vikos Gorge. All the gear was provided (raft, paddle, dry suit, floatation, safety gear) and the guides are experienced locals that live in the area. We had a blast!
Standing in the Voidomatis River deep inside the Vikos Gorge
Cheryl seemed to get along with the river guides quite happily.
We also booked a day hike through the stone villages and bridges in the Zagori region with Trekking Hella. Our adventure took most of the day with Georges as our guide over the iconic stone bridges of Kontodimos, Misios, Kalogerikο, Kapetan Arkoudas . The trail also winds through the stone villages of Vitsa, Koukouli, Kipi and Dilofo. As we hiked these ancient trails Georges, shared stories about the villages, the trails, the beautiful scenery and the flowers. It turns out that Zagori is well known for the colorful orchids on the trails.
Here is hike highlights.
Stove Village and Stone Bridge on the hike
View of Vikos Gorge
The trail through one of the villages
Stone arched bridge along the hike
Along the trail
A Bee Orchid on the trail
Crossing one of the stone bridges
Cheryl and Georges on the trail
Crossing one of the stone bridges
View of Vikos
If you love the rugged outdoors, please put Zagori on your list! Aristi is a fantastic home base to explore the forests, mountains, rivers, flowers, villages and bridges. The people and the countryside are beyond description.
If you enjoyed this post, let us know. And share it with your friends. Sign up for our newsletter below to get more updates.