“Endearing, convivial and alien to the roar of the modernizing obsession of the post war United States”

— Anonymous

The skyline of San Miguel de Allende at night as seen from the rooftop bar of the Rosewood Hotel — Enjoy the San Miguel de Allende skyline from the rooftop bar Rosewood Hotel

North of Mexico City, in between the coastal towns of Veracruz and Puerto Vallarta, around 6,000 feet in the Guanajuato Region is the most charming city of San Miguel de Allende. Sometime in the 14th century, silver and other precious metals were discovered. The area also had water, essential for life, travel and commerce so the Spanish colonized this hilly area and called it San Miguel el Grande.

Ancient pyramid built by the Chichimeca's about 1500 years ago. Just outside of San Miguel de Allende

Of course, Indigenous people (Chichimecas) inhabited the area for hundreds or perhaps thousands of years prior. They enjoyed the hot springs and built pyramids. Unfortunately, there are no preserved written records however the pyramids offer clues to a sophisticated civilization that used the stars above to guide their farming life.

In 1542 a Franciscan priest built the Chapel of San Miguel Archangel to protect the Inland Royal Route as the New Spanish began to mine the vast veins of silver discovered at Zacatecas.

The New Spanish amassed much wealth and built a beautiful town with cobblestone streets, grand haciendas and European style gardens. By the 1770s it was a wealthy, cosmopolitan city, larger than either New York City or Boston. The primary architectural style is Mexican Baroque. In 2008 UNESCO designated the town a World Heritage site with the “finest examples of Baroque art and architecture in New Spain.” The city is a melting pot where Spaniards, Creoles and Amerindians co-exist.

As time went on, Spain required New Spain to pay more taxes to fund their ongoing European wars. After Napoleon (France) defeated Spain in 1808, New Spain had enough. A long, bloody revolution ensued. Much of the planning began in San Miguel at the home of Captain Ignacio Allende, a captain of the Spanish Army in Mexico who came to sympathize with the Mexican independence movement. Allende was captured, imprisoned and executed but the city was renamed in his honor - San Miguel de Allende. In 1821 Mexico was born.

Modern Times

The bustling street of San Miguel de Allende at night — Modern San Miguel de Allende at night is very vibrant

Fast forward a hundred years. As modernity began to creep in, the city fathers saw the wisdom of protecting what they had. The center of San Miguel was named a National Historic Landmark. The town became popular as a hang-out for Mexican movie stars, famous for its nearby hot springs, pure air and colonial charm.

In 1938, the most prominent American to ever live in San Miguel de Allende arrived. Stirling Dickinson rode into town on a donkey from the bus station on a sunny February day. He soon became the director of a new art school at Bellas Artes. Artists flocked to the Bellas Artes to teach or study. Worthy of note are Leonard & Reva Brooks and of course, the 3 Mexican muralists - David Alfaro Siqueiros, Diego Rivera and José Clemente Orozco.

After World War II, San Miguel was "discovered" yet again, this time by U.S. GIs, who realized their GI benefit checks stretch a lot farther in Mexico than back home. And San Miguel was the perfect place for many to heal from the horrors—both physical and psychic—of the war. In 1950, the Instituto Allende formed with Dickinson as its first director.

San Miguel's role as an artists' and writer's colony became firmly established. And so it still is today.

In the '60s, the U.S. counterculture arrived with Ken Kesey and the Merry Pranksters. In the '70s, hippies drank in La Cucaracha, a famous bar on the corner of the Jardín where Banamex is today.

San Miguel de Allende is famous as a "fiesta" town” and sometimes the reason isn't obvious. San Miguel loves to party. And, like most of Mexico, it has a serious love affair going on with fireworks. However, a 5 minute walk through the Parque Juarez leads to a quiet part of town.

Experiences in San Miguel de Allende

The Sanctuary of Atotonilco

Guides in San Miguel

There is so much to learn here in San Miguel. There is a very rich history of the indigenous people that stretches back a few millennia, the history of the Spanish of a few centuries, and the recent history of the rebirth of San Miguel in the past fifty years. Hiring a guide is very helpful. We explored San Miguel de Allende with Isabele and explored the ancient pyramid with her father, Arturo. Both are experienced guides who San Miguel de Allende reside in the town.

Book them! San Miguel Xperience. Or email at smaxperiences@gmail.com.

Arturo explaining the details of the ancient pyramid built by the Chichimecas

Cycling Tour

Choosing the right filling on our Quesadillas

Beto Martínez runs the oldest bike shop in SMA is Bici-Burro. His father opened the shop over 40 years ago. Since Beto grew up in San Miguel de Allende he knows every trail and jeep path in the area. Our tour started about 5 miles out of town in Atotonilco. The ride was about 3 hours and traversed little villages and farmlands of the region. We rode past children herding goats and Vaqueros (cowboys) moving cattle. The ride ended with a delicious quesadilla on the streets of Atotonilco. What a fantastic day! The riding was not too technically difficult but it does require some skill and fitness. We highly recommend Beto!

Shopping in San Miguel

Strolling around San Miguel de Allende is a visual feast with art galleries and shops everywhere. Isabele, our guide, gave us some helpful tips on where to find some beautiful, locally made crafts to bring home.

Art and Galleries of San Miguel

The Belle Artes is a must see. The building and grounds are beautiful. Originally built as a convent and later converted into an art school in the mid 20th century. In addition to Bella Artes we enjoyed these galleries:

Arte Mexicano artemexicano_sma@outlook.com
Juan Zaragoza Art Co juanzaragoza.com

Places to stay

There are many choices of places to stay ranging from the luxury of the Rosewood Hotel, the old Hacienda which is now the Hotel Santa Monica, or the privacy of a quiet home booked with SanMiguelRetreats.com. There are also options like Third Home or Hacienda el Santuario. There are many boutique hotels in the city center. So many good choices. Though if you want a heated pool, you check out the Rosewood. They are rare in San Miguel, but there are hot springs close by.

Food and Drink

List of our favorites!

Cafe Firenze - best short ribs ever and Barata cheese.
La Parada - Peruvian with Mexican spin on dishes
The Restaurant- Chef Donnie Masterson used to be a chef in SF and has a Taco Lab now in SMA
Atrio rooftop restaurant
Cheaper but great restaurants:
EL Pegaso - wonderful full menu for anything you want. Cesar salad made fresh in front of you
La Azotea Bar/tapas- upstairs from Puebla Viejo on Umaran- best jicama shrimp tacos with tamarind /chipotle sauce (no tortilla but made out of jicama!) very good chipatta sandwich with arrachera. Great rooftop bar
Los Milagros- on Hildalgo Big Mexican restaurant with great fajitas and live music
Best Breakfast: Lavanda on Hernandes macias- very long wait to get in tho...
Don Tomas Rincon- at a corner of the Jardin has great breakfasts and lunches. Sit outside and enjoy the scene
La Parrochia in Jesus - good Mexican breakfast
Rosewood Hotel upstairs bar with great views, drinks and appetizers.
Also an incredible Sunday Brunch on main floor
Santa Monica hotel a decent Sunday Brunch amid old world style
Companion- for pastries